Surfs Up: Will Different Ocean Bottoms Affect the Height of a Breaking Wave? Phase II

Overview

Objectives/Goals The purpose of my project was to determine if different ocean bottoms affect the height of a breaking wave. Phase II of this project was to find more accurate data by using a mechanical wave tank machine at Birch Aquarium at the Scripps Institute of Oceanography. The wave machine provided a consistant wave force and by laying out the materials in the area half way between the mechanical paddle and the breaking of the wave, it allowed me to measure the height at the point of the breaking wave. Out of my four bottoms, rocks, gravel, sand, and a simulated reef made up of crushed sea shells and modeling clay, I thought the simulated reef would produce the highest wave. I chose this project to help surfers choose a safe and fun break to ride. Methods/Materials I prepared and formed four oceanscapes by laying out the different materials onto a measured piece of hard plastic. The plastic piece was appoximately 2 feet by 2 feet and the rocks, gravel, sand and simulated reef, were attached and it was lowered into the wave machine while it was turned off. A measuring tape was attached outside of the tank at the point where the wave broke. The machine was started and the electronic paddle produce an accurate consistant wave. I collected visual data in centimeters as the wave passed by the ruler. This process was repeated 10 times for each bottom. Results The overall results for the highest wave was rocks with an average of 10.5 centimeters. The median was the simulated coral reef with the results of 8 centimeters. In third, the gravel came in with 9.5 centimeters. The lowest result was the sand with an average of 5 centimeters. Conclusions/Discussion After completing my investigation on what type of ocean bottoms affect the height of a breaking wave, I found that my overall hypothesis of the simulated reef making the highest wave was incorrect. By using a mechanical wave machine my results differed from Phase I. In Phase I, I manually pushed the waves and did not have as much control on the force of the wave. Therefore, by using a large mechanical wave machine the results showed that the rocks provide the highest wave. The sand shifted so much that the wave had a hard time forming. I met my objective by proving that surfers can now search for new breaks in areas that can be safe and fun. Plus surf shop owners know where to establish a business where sufers can purchase supplies and this can help the economy.

Awards (1)

• Third Place

Competition history

• CSEF 2008 Earth & Planetary Sciences · Entry J0704

Resources

• CSEF project summary ↗

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