Optimization and Physiological Stress Analysis of Chinese Herbal Formulations for Acne Treatment
CWSF · 2026 Health & Wellness Silver Medal
Overview
For acne treatment, conventional Western medicine focuses on addressing direct symptoms and causes and has been effective for some people, but often has harsh side effects. Chinese herbal medicine (CHM) focuses on holistic and individualized treatments that address imbalances within the body, but currently has very little scientific research. I expanded on my previous project by studying the effects of individual Chinese herbs on oil and moisture in artificial skin, then creating and evaluating new optimized formulations while also testing their effectiveness and stability under various physiological stressors. Through basic and statistical data analysis, I found that Formulation 3, containing Cimicifuga Foetida, Sophora Flavescens, and Snaketongue Grass, was most effective for reducing oil and improving moisture absorption and moisture retention even under stressors. These findings can be used as an alternative, holistic, and less aggressive treatment for people struggling with acne, and also serve as a foundation for future research.
Video
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Video
Transcript:
My name is Angelina Zhang, and I studied how traditional Chinese herbs could be used as a topical treatment for acne. I continued my previous project by addressing a completely new research question with new data to expand on what I found last year. The main issue with conventional Western medicine is that while it can be an effective and targeted treatment for some people, it often has harsh side effects. Chinese herbal medicine focuses on holistic treatments that address imbalances within the body and has many benefits, but there is currently very little research on it. My study was split into 2 phases: a preliminary screening analysis to identify the most effective individual herbs, then creating and evaluating new optimized herbal formulations based on those results. I tested how they affect oil levels and moisture absorption and retention in artificial skin. I found that Formulation 3, containing Cimicifuga Foetida, Sophora Flavescens, and Snaketongue Grass was the most effective. My goal is to integrate both Western and traditional medicine as equally valuable forms of acne treatment.
Why?
Introduction
Previously, I studied how various supplements and a general Chinese herbal medicine (CHM) formulation affected oil and moisture in artificial skin in relation to acne. This year, I continued evaluating oil and moisture, but focused on breaking down the formulation into individual herbs then creating new, optimized formulations, and additionally testing their stability and effectiveness under physiological stressors.
Background Information
Acne is a common skin disorder affecting 633 million people globally, yet can be difficult to treat and manage. Oil regulation, moisture absorption and moisture retention are all important factors in acne treatment. Western medicine targets direct symptoms and causes, but can be aggressive and difficult to sustain. CHM focuses on holistic and individualized treatments that address imbalances within the body and has many benefits, like whole body support and fewer harsh side effects. However, research on CHM is limited, especially as a topical treatment for acne.
Inspiration
I was motivated by my own experiences struggling with conventional acne treatments but seeing efficacy in alternative and traditional forms of treatment.
Objectives
Phase 1:
Evaluate and identify the most effective individual herbs.
Phase 2:
Develop, evaluate, and identify most effective herbal formulations based on Phase 1 results.
Hypotheses
Individual herbs and formulations will vary in their effectiveness at reducing oil levels and improving moisture absorption/retention, and their effectiveness will decrease to varying degrees under oxidative stress and pH imbalances.
Formulations created from the most effective herbs in Phase 1 will be more effective when used synergistically compared to individually.
How?
A similar experimental design from last year was refined to improve accuracy and efficiency while also maintaining consistency throughout the continuation.
Each phase involved an oil study to test oil levels on the surface of artificial skin over time and a moisture study to test water absorption and retention in artificial skin over time. All experimental groups had some type of physiological stressor induced (oxidative stress, low pH, high pH).
Controls
Positive control (concentrated acne serum)
Untreated control
Last year's herbal formulation
No stressor control
Preparation
2 layers of artificial skin (dermis + epidermis) were created using household ingredients, and lemon juice/baking soda was used to lower/raise the pH of the artificial skin (if applicable).
Each sample had a stressor induced either in the artificial skin itself for pH differences or using hydrogen peroxide on top to mimic oxidative stress.
Herbs were boiled individually in water to create decoctions with a 0.4g/mL concentration for Phase 1. Solutions were then mixed in equal parts to create herbal formulations for Phase 2.
Oil study
Simulated sebum (olive oil, mineral oil, jojoba oil) was applied to samples and left to absorb before treatment application, which was absorbed as well. Blotting paper was pressed evenly onto the surface and a picture was taken. Image analysis was done to determine the pixel intensity of the blotting paper (higher pixel intensity value = less oil & vice versa).
Moisture study
Treatments were applied to samples and left to absorb. A water droplet was applied in the center of the sample and its absorption/evaporation time from the skin was measured (less absorption time = improved absorption & vice versa; longer evaporation time = improved retention & vice versa)
In both studies, the process was repeated once daily for 7 days and each sample in Phase 2 had 3 trials.
What?
(Formulation key in figures above)
(Refer to tables above for detailed numerical values of results)
Averages across all 3 sample values for each experiment were calculated along with their standard deviation. The overall percent change in oil levels and moisture absorption/evaporation time was also calculated for each experiment from the average start and end values.
Phase 1
Hawthorn, Angelica Root, Snaketongue Grass, C. Foetida, Goldthread, and S. Flavescens were identified for strong oil and moisture regulating results under various stressors. C. Foetida and Snaketongue Grass appeared twice, suggesting they have wide applicability and strong stability.
Phase 2
Across all 3 metrics (oil regulation, moisture absorption/retention), F3 was most consistently effective. It was also shown to be similar to or more effective than the positive control. F2 was slightly more effective in most metrics even across various stressors than F1. F0 performed similarly to F1, with each having some aspects seeming more effective under different stressors and at different levels.
Formulations and treatments were generally more effective in regulating oil and improving moisture absorption/retention compared to the untreated control to varying degrees.
Stressors that worsened treatment efficacy varied between treatments and controls. In general, low pH worsened treatment efficacy the most, followed by oxidative stress, then high pH. This may be due to herbal compounds being sensitive and degrading under acidic conditions. Some herbs have antioxidant properties that may partially protect against oxidative stress. Basic conditions may be less disruptive to compounds.
Formulations created to maintain their performance most optimally under the stressor the herbs were most effective in initially (Phase 1) were predicted to be most effective in that respective stressor, and results were generally consistent with predictions.
Optimized formulations were generally more effective compared to the individual herbs that made up the formulations.
The formulations created from research in Phase 1 (F1, F2, F3) were generally more effective, even across different stressors, than F0.
Statistical Analysis
A Linear Mixed Model (LMM) was used on Phase 2 results. An LMM analyzes data, taking into consideration both fixed effects (variables of interest) and random effects (variables representing random differences between samples). It separates real effect from randomness and calculates how different factors and their interactions affect results.
Notably, the formulation x stressor interaction was significant in both studies, confirming that the effectiveness of the formulation changes with the stressor.
In both studies, F3 was significant for almost all pairwise comparisons, meaning its effectiveness was likely not due to random chance, which is important considering that F3 was the most effective formulation overall.
Not all pairwise comparisons for the stressors in both studies were significant, meaning we cannot conclude that some stressors' effects were not due to random chance.
Overall, statistical analysis generally supported the trend that optimized formulations (F1, F2, F3) were more effective the original formulation (F0), particularly under stress conditions. Although not all pairwise comparisons reached significance, it does not necessarily invalidate observed results and trends, but rather that they warrant further investigation.
So What?
Conclusion
F3 (C. Foetida, S. Flavescens, Snaketongue Grass) was the most effective in reducing oil levels and improving both moisture absorption and retention under various stressors across both studies. These elements are extremely relevant to acne in that they are essential for healthy sebum production/regulation and a strong skin barrier.
The hypotheses in Phase 1 were supported, the results of which were used to help form hypotheses in Phase 2, which were also supported. The objective of the project was mainly to investigate and explore the effects of many different herbs and formulations equally than to focus on and validate a single treatment.
This year, the ideas, methods, and techniques were refined and ameliorated to optimize results, and the focus was on CHM specifically. The main changes were that the original formulation was separated into individual herbs and new herbs were added, then optimized synergistic formulations were created based off results, and were tested under various physiological stressors. While this project continued off my existing research, it addresses a completely new question that stemmed from my previous work.
Applications
This research can help people who struggle with acne to find an alternative, holistic, and less aggressive form of treatment. There is also very little research on CHM as a topical acne treatment, so these findings can be used as a foundation for future investigation and validation. The goal is to integrate both traditional and Western medicine as equally valuable forms of acne treatment to suit different needs and purposes.
What's Next?
Limitations/Errors
Artificial skin and simulated sebum do not fully replicate the complexity and characteristics of real human skin and sebum
Chinese herbal formulations are traditionally taken orally
Treatments were only tested for 1 week
Small methodological inconsistencies
Improvements/Further Research
Test additional environmental/physiological stressors
Test other herb formulations and ratios
Other quantitative and qualitative methods of evaluation
Analyze other factors that contribute to acne
Increase number of samples and trials
Biochemical mechanisms behind observed effects
Developing a prototype acne product utilizing the herbal formulation found in results alongside skincare ingredients to be used on skin for acne treatment
Thanks
A sincere thank you to:
My parents, for helping me buy supplies and ingredients, teaching me how to decoct herbs, providing ideas and input where they can, listening to my presentation, and for wholeheartedly supporting me with science fair.
WMSF for providing the opportunity to go to CWSF each year.
My friends and school for recognizing my achievements and supporting my endeavors.
References
2025 Project
Zhang, A. (2025). Alternative Acne Treatments: The Effects of Natural Supplements and Chinese Herbal Medicine. ProjectBoard; Youth Science Canada. https://partner.projectboard.world/ysc/project/alternative-acne-treatments-the-effects-of-natural-supplements-and-chinese-herbal-medicine
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Yoon, S. B., Lee, Y. J., Park, S. K., Kim, H. C., Bae, H., Kim, H. M., Ko, S. G., Choi, H. Y., Oh, M. S., & Park, W. (2009). Anti-inflammatory effects of Scutellaria baicalensis water extract on LPS-activated RAW 264.7 macrophages. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 125(2), 286–290. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jep.2009.06.027
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Videos
Yip, Edric. (2020, September 26). Tutorial on creating reusable artifical [sic] skin by gelatin-glycerol mould. [Video]. YouTube. Retrieved September 8, 2024, from https://youtu.be/Sy7Li49fKUY?si=x82VW2AH3owoqfRF
Applications Used
ImageJ (oil level analysis)
jamovi (data analysis)
ChatGPT (refining experimental design, data analysis and writing/wording)
Microsoft Excel (spreadsheets for organizing data, creating graphs)
Microsoft Word (logbook, references)
Microsoft PowerPoint (poster, ProjectBoard)
Images (29)
Awards (2)
- Silver Medal
- Selected for CWSF 2026
Competition history
- CWSF 2026
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