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Analysis of Bathymetric Relationships Between Wave Metrics and Sand Movement

AJAS · 2025 Earth and Environmental Sciences (inferred)

Maili McManus · North Carolina Academy of Science

Overview

As sea levels rise and increase the rates of shoreline recession around coastal communities, developing strategies to mitigate this erosion should involve an examination of near-shore bathymetry and morphology in order to achieve an effective solution. This project investigates the relationship between wave energy, height and period and changes in bathymetry. Implementing a robust analysis program facilitated the import of pertinent bathymetric data and ocean conditions. Through a comprehensive analysis of thousands of data entries from the XBand radar, the program was able to calculate bathymetric changes and relate those to wave properties given by the Coastal Data Information Program (CDIP) buoy. Studying these relationships showed no correlation between wave energy and the amount of sand moved, though there was a correlation between wave height and sand moved as well as an inverse correlation between wave period and sand moved. This finding holds significant implications for future research into shoreline dynamics. Future research could further identify features of the bathymetry plot associated with slower erosion rates and determine optimal swell conditions to minimize shoreline impact. Additionally, investigating how erosion follows periodic changes across seasons and years presents an impactful avenue for analysis. This line of research has the potential to shape the development of artificial reefs, incorporating ecological and morphological considerations. By elucidating the relationship between wave properties and bathymetric changes, this study advances understanding, providing a starting point for future research toward mitigating shoreline recession rates as sea levels rise.

Competition history

  • AJAS 2025 Category not listed

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Source: AAAS Annual Meeting (Confex) / American Junior Academy of Science

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